CARRIER OILS 101

WHAT ARE CARRIER OILS (CO)?

A carrier oil is a vegetable oil derived from the fatty portion of a plant, usually from the seeds, kernels or the nuts. They are also known as base oil, vegetable oil, or fixed oils to differentiate them from essential oils. Carrier Oils are pressed from the fatty portions (seeds, nuts, kernels) and do not evaporate or impart their aroma as strongly as essential oils. Carrier oils can go rancid over time, but essential oils do not. Instead, essential oils "oxidize" and lose their therapeutic benefits, but they don't go rancid. If you come across a carrier oil that has a strong, bitter aroma, the carrier oil may have gone rancid. If you can, compare the aroma of the oil that you suspect is rancid with an oil that you know is fresh.

BENEFITS OF CARRIER OILS AND OILS TO AVOID IN HAIR CARE

Carrier oils have great benefits for the skin. as they can act as moisturizers, sebum regulators, fatty dirt cleansers, and vehicles for vital ingredients like vitamins into skin layers. They are used for moisturizing the hair and assist to keep a healthy cuticle. Carrier oils are just as necessary for stimulating hair growth and hair loss treatment. The carrier oils give essential fatty acids to the follicles and scalp. They provide essential nutrients and are therapeutic. They will add shine to dry hair and moisturize the scalp to nourish and help prevent dandruff. When looking for COs avoid Mineral Oils and Petroleum Jelly because they can clog pores, prevent the skin from breathing naturally, prevent essential oil absorption, prevent toxins from leaving the body through the natural process of sweating and can be absorbed into the body and block vitamins from properly being utilized.

HOW TO STORE CARRIER OILS

For carrier oils that you will be keeping for a long duration, store them in dark glass bottles with tight fitting tops, and store them in a cool, dark location. Amber or cobalt round bottles are ideal. If you will be using up an oil well before its lifespan, it really doesn't need to be transferred to dark glass. When you purchase carrier oils, the supplier may have packaged it in a plastic bottle. This doesn't mean that the oil is inferior. Unlike with essential oils which should always be stored in glass (essential oils can dissolve the plastic), carrier oils can be stored in plastic. Most carrier oils can be stored in the refrigerator, and this can help prolong the lifespan of the oils. Oils stored in the refrigerator may turn cloudy and will need time to return to room temperature prior to use.

SHELF LIFE FOR CARRIER OILS

Most cold pressed carrier oils typically have a shelf life of between 9 and 15 months, depending on the particular oil in question and how well it is stored. Grapeseed oil has perhaps one of the shortest shelf lives at around 6 to 9 months, with Borage, Carrot and Evening Primrose oil close behind at around 10 to 12 months. However, Coconut and Jojoba oil  will keep for many, many years. But, almond or grapeseed oil only last for a few months. Carrier oils will go rancid eventually. However, this process usually takes up to a year and these products should have been used long before such a long period. This is one very good reason to buy smaller sizes of these products more regularly, rather than the one purchase of a larger size.

SHOPPING FOR CARRIER OILS

Typical vegetable oils sold in grocery stores are not cold-pressed. Instead, the oils are processed using heat. For the most nourishing, freshest carrier oils, strive to shop with retailers and suppliers that specialize in the sale of aromatherapy or natural skin care ingredients. Your local health food/nutrition store may be a source for carrier oils, but the oils can often be pricier. Watch for dust on the bottles when buying oils locally. That can indicate the oil has been sitting around for awhile. Look for oils that are not blends of two or more oils and that have no additives.

·         Processing Method: Shop for carrier oils that have been cold pressed or cold expeller pressed. This indicates that the oil has been pressed from the fatty portions of the botanical without the use of added heat. The process can still generate heat due to the friction of the method, but cold expeller pressed oils are processed under conditions that keep the heat to a minimum. Oils that simply say expeller pressed have not been processed to maintain low heat levels. When oils are processed without cool conditions, the high temperature degree and duration of the processing method can harm the nutrients in the oil.

·         Price: Carrier oils can vary greatly in price based on several factors: The botanical it's made from, how it was processed, if it's organic, the quantity that you're purchasing, and the source that you're purchasing it from.

·         Organic: Organic carrier oils generally cost more than conventional oils. When purchasing organic carrier oils, verify the oil is certified.

LIST OF COMMONLY USED CARRIER OILS (This is not a complete list of all COs)

·         Aloe Vera Oil - Comes from the Aloe plant. The oil is odorless, rich in protein, vitamins and minerals, and is a powerful moisturizer. It’s recommended for treatment of dandruff and scalp-based eczema. It is said to lead to hair growth as a result of circulation stimulation in the scalp.

·         Avocado Oil - this light oil is rich in potassium and vitamins that nourish your hair, such as vitamins D, E, and A. It’s known as a hair growth stimulant too. It is great for chemically treated hair, thin hair, and dry hair. It’s also used to treat psoriasis of the scalp. Please note that it goes rancid fairly fast and is best kept refrigerated.

·         Coconut Oil - A very popular conditioner that also gives shine and acts as a detangler. It’s good for treating dandruff. This oil helps increase hair growth. Coconut oil is heavy and is best suited for those with coarse or curly hair.

·         Grapeseed Oil - A very light oil that is a good moisturizer for most hair types. It is somewhat of an astringent. It’s great choice for thin or fine hair because it is so light.

·         Jojoba Oil - The molecular structure is similar to sebum, which is an oil that naturally occurs in human hair. This makes it a great choice for a moisturizer. Jojoba oil is popular in hot oil treatments. Hair that is very damaged and delicate would benefit from this oil.

·         Olive Oil - This oil is heavy, so it is best for curly or thick hair. It’s great for hair that is damaged and dry. Brings back your hair's elasticity and even helps relieve dryness of the scalp.

·         Sesame Oil - This light oil is good for conditioning. It has even been known to aid in protecting hair from the effects of the sun

·         Sweet Almond Oil – Perfect for those of us with sensitive skin. This oil is commonly used in soap, lotions and hair products. It contains Vitamins A, B1, B2, B6 and E, as well as essential fatty acids (good fats).

·         Castor Oil – Castor oil can be used to treat skin conditions such as fungal infections, softens cuticles and is great as a massage oil. Castor oil added to hair care products helps to seal moisture, soften and thicken hair

·         Vitamin E Oil - Vitamin E is a well known antioxidant and when added to homemade products, helps to preserve them. Vitamin E acts as a rejuvenator and protectant for scalp and skin. Good for hot oil treatments.

There are many other carrier oils that are great for our hair. BUT PLEASE do your research or consult your physician before trying new products. Be sure to read my other post on Essential Oils.

ESSENTIAL OILS 101

WHAT ARE ESSENTIAL OILS (EO)?

An essential oil is a liquid from the leaves, stems, flowers, bark, roots, or other elements of a plant. Most essential oils are clear, but some oils are amber or yellow in color. Essential oils are highly concentrated and a little goes a long way. Always dilute your essential oils are often used with a carrier oil.

BENEFITS OF ESSENTIAL OILS

There are many natural oils with a variety of benefits and nutrients that can be used for black hair care. The beneficial properties can:

- Add shine to hair
- Supply the scalp with nourishing nutrients
- Promote hair growth
- Prevent hair loss
- Control dandruff

Natural hair oils for black hair care can best be used for:

- Sealing in moisture
- Scalp massages
- Protecting the ends of hair
- Hot Oil Treatments
- Hair Growth

HOW TO DILUTE ESSENTIAL OILS

Using a 2% essential oil dilution is considered a safe guideline for topical application of essential oils on adults. To easily approximate a 2% dilution, add 12 drops of your chosen essential oil to 1 fl. oz (30ml) of carrier oil.

HOW TO STORE ESSENTIAL OILS

Although essential oils do not become rancid, they can oxidize, deteriorate and lose their beneficial therapeutic properties over time. Not all essential oils diminish in quality as time passes. However, all essential oils will benefit from proper storage and handling. To avoid deterioration and protect the properties of your essential oils, store them in amber or cobalt blue bottles. Dark glass such as amber or cobalt helps to keep out deteriorating sunlight. Be leery of purchasing any oils sold in clear glass bottles. Clear glass bottles are not harmful to essential oils, but clear glass does not protect the oils from damaging sunlight. Also, avoid purchasing pure essential oils sold in plastic bottles because the essential oil will eat at the plastic, and the essential oil will become ruined over a short period of time. Essential oils should also be stored in a cool, dark place. Additionally, avoid purchasing essential oils that are stored in bottles that have a rubber dropper in its screw-top cap. Droppers with rubber bulbs should not be kept with the essential oil bottle because the oil can turn the rubber bulb into gum and ruin the essential oil. Most essential oils are sold in bottles that contain an "orifice reducer." An orifice reducer is a small, usually clear insert inside the bottle opening that acts as a dropper. Orifice reducers will not harm essential oils. You simply tip the bottle to dispense the oil drop by drop.

SHOPPING FOR ESSENTIAL OILS

Watch out for words such as “fragrance oil,” “nature identical oil,” or “perfume oil.” These words indicate that what you see is not a pure, single essential oil. Be precautious of suppliers that promote their essential oils as being "therapeutic grade" or "aromatherapy grade." There is no governmental regulating body that grades or certifies essential oils as "therapeutic grade" or "aromatherapy grade." Most vendors selling quality oils, at sizes of 4 oz. or smaller, sell their oils in dark colored glass. Be leery of vendors that sell oils at these sizes in plastic or clear glass containers. When buying essential oils locally, watch for oils that have dust on the top of the bottles or boxes. This is an indication that the oils have been sitting around. As time passes, many oils lose their therapeutic properties, and their aroma diminishes. Remember that organic oils are typically superior to non-organic oils. Also, be cautious about purchasing oils from vendors at street fairs, craft shows, festivals or other limited-time events. Many of these vendors are selling products as a hobby, and unfortunately some vendors at these events may know their customers have no recourse against them after the event is over. This is not to say that there are not highly reputable sellers at such events, but this is a caution for beginners who are not able to reliably judge quality at first.

SHELF LIFE OF ESSENTIAL OILS

Apart from a few exceptions, all steam distilled essential oils have a shelf life of at least 2 years, and even more when stored properly. Tea Tree, Pine and Fir oils are the above exceptions, and typically have a shelf life of around 12 to 18 months due to certain components in their natural chemical composition.

Cold pressed citrus oils have the shortest shelf life of all essential oils. Therefore extra care should be taken to store them safely away from sources of heat. If they were fresh when you purchased them from your supplier, you can expect citrus oils to remain in good condition for 9 to 12 months and even longer when cared for properly.

Due to their chemical makeup, essential oils do not turn rancid like vegetable oils they simply degrade gradually into a state where the therapeutic properties become diminished. Your nose will tell you that something is seriously wrong long before the point when the oils become unsuitable to be added to carriers for use.

LIST OF COMMONLY USED ESSENTIAL OILS (This is not a complete list of all EOs)

·         Lavender - is the first which springs into mind when talking about essential oils for hair growth. It calms the hair and soothes the scalp, so if you have a scalp problem this is the perfect oil to go for.

·         Chamomile - is regarded as the most soothing oil of them all. It contains vitamins and minerals which are essential for a healthy hair, thus managing to treat white flakes, dandruff or scalp cells which have been inflamed.

·         Lemon - is another good treatment for inflamed scalp and dandruff. A treatment with lemon oil will help with under working sebaceous glands which help keep the hair from drying out. But be careful not to over use with this, because too much can also damage the hair.

·         Sage – a strong sage infusion will darken your hair and help reduce hair loss. Use it twice every week for best results which will be seen in a matter of weeks.

·         Bay – will help your hair grow. If you think that your hair is a little dull and would benefit from some extra volume, you can use bay as it is one of the best essential oils for hair loss. Acting as a tonic when added to your shampoo, it will make your hair feel fresh after every wash.

·         Rosemary - helps in stimulating the hair bulbs, which enables the growth of new strains. People who are experiencing premature baldness should start using rosemary in their shampoo or applied to the scalp 30 minutes before washing the hair.

·         Arnica - is used as a rinse to treat early and more developed stages of alopecia, in other words baldness.

·         Basil - is an oil you will want to keep into sight if your hair has started to lose volume. It manages to give back life to hair from the roots up. Massaging basil oil into the scalp is a good practice and should be done every night before sleep or 1 hour before washing your hair.

·         Peppermint - manages to stimulate the blood flow in the scalp. By increasing the amount of blood which circulates under the skin your hair will regenerate faster and regain the energy it lacks in no time.

·         Myrrh - is a good treatment for people with very greasy hair. If used in small quantities it will control the amount of sebum which is produced by the glands in the scalp, thus giving you a cleaner hair for a longer period of time.

·         Tea Tree and Ylang Ylang - is very good against dandruff. Combining the two will allow you to also purify your scalp at the same time

There are many other essential oils that are great for our hair. BUT PLEASE do your research or consult your physician before trying new products. Be sure to read my other post on Carrier Oils.

NATURAL HAIR DICTIONARY

I've respectfully borrowed some of terms from the "Natural Nerd Dictionary" over at PrettyNaturalDivas.com and the Natural Hair Dictionary at CurlyNikki.com. I hope this helps everyone with understanding Natural Hair Terms.

2nd day hair- Hair that looks good (at least decent) when you wake up the next morning...you don't have to do much before walking out of the house. Some are lucky enough to get 3rd and 4th day hair!

3abc/4a/4b/4c- A hair type classification system, for further clarification, see this link.

ACV- Apple Cider Vinegar (used to seal cuticle...final rinse) A hair type classification system.

APL- Refers to length-- arm pit length.

BAA-Big ass afro

Baggy - After you moisturize your hair at night, you put a shopping bag, plastic cap, shower cap on overnight.

BC, also known as the big chop, refers to a method many naturals use when going from relaxed hair to Natural. The person will merely cut their off into a short style, often times a fade.
BNC- Braid-n-Curl, simply plait or braid the hair and roll the ends on rods or flexis.

BSL- Refers to length-- bra strap length.

BSS- Beauty Supply Store

CBL- Refers to length-- collar bone length.

CG- Refers to the "Curly Girl" method explained in the book by Lorraine Massey. It is a philosophy for curls that involves, no or low shampoo, cone avoidance, and conditioner washing...among other things. These are just a few of the basic tenants.

Cones- Are 'silicones', or ingredients found in hair care products that are not water soluble (i.e. you need shampoo to remove). Failure to wash out cones may lead to build-up, which may result in dry hair and breakage (due to suffocation of the strands).

Co- Wash, also known as conditioner wash, refers to a method used by many Naturals, where shampoo is replaced with conditioner for washing. This method is known for giving more curl defintion and replenishing moisture into the hair, whereas continuous washing with shampoos may dry out hair.

DT or DC- Is a deep treatment or conditioner. A DT is when you leave a moisturizing (or protein based, depending on your needs) conditioner on your hair for an extended period of time, along with a heat source to aid in penetration.

Dusting- Dusting your hair is a trim of 1/4 an inch or less. This method is also referred to as dusting because even though your hair is being trimmed evenly, it is so little hair, that it just looks like dust on the floor.

EO- Essential Oil

EVOO- Extra Virgin Olive Oil

EVCO- Extra Virgin Coconut Oil (used in conditioning treatments)

Hairspiration- refers to a person or a hairstyle that inspires you, commonly inspiring changes in your appearance and hair, in particular.

HEHH- Herbal Essences Hello Hydration.

HG- Holy Grail (Products that are tried and true)

HIH- Hand in Hair. Its a disease that causes you to always be manipulating your tresses.

MBL- Refers to length-- mid back length.

Nappyversary - The anniversary of the day you became a natural

No-poo- It's just that- no shampoo. Ladies who follow this routine are CG'ers and don't use cones or other heavy/oily products that may need shampoo to remove. Instead of pooing, many ladies conditioner wash, or use conditioner in place of shampoo to cleanse the scalp.

Pineappleing- a type of sleeping technique that curlies with long hair use to
preserve/protect curls overnight so that they have great 2nd day hair. You gather all of your hair in a high, but loose
pony tail at the top of your head and go to sleep on a satin
pillowcase. In the morning you take it down and shake it out gently and
all of your curls will have been preserved.

PJ- Product Junky or someone that buys any all hair care products in sight...forever on a mission to find the next best thing.

Plopping- A quick dry method. You use a t-shirt or a curl friendly material (terry cloth towel, paper towel) to dry your hair instead
of rubbing a towel on your hair to dry it. It drastically decreases drying times.

Pre-pooing- A treatment applied prior to shampooing. It usually consists of oils and/or conditioners applied the night before the shampoo or immediately prior, with a heat source to help penetrate. This is usually performed to help the hair maintain necessary moisture during the drying shampoo process.

Product Junkie- refers to a person who continously is trying different products and is constantly changing their [hair]regimen because of it.

Sealing- Is essentially sealing moisture in the hair, specifically the ends. For sealing to be effective, you must first use a water-based moisturizer (a conditioner or cream that has water as its first ingredient), and then seal with a butter or oil. The molecules in most butters/oils are too large to pass into the hair, so they stick to the outside of the shaft, trapping in the rich goodness of the moisturizer. Reversing those 2 steps will lead to dry hair.

Search and Destroy (S&Ds)- Find good lighting, usually in the bathroom, and examine your ends...whenever you see a split, a crooked end or a single strand knot, snip it out. Only use hair scissors for this task (purchase from Sally's or Walmart). This is key. Buy a decent pair of hair scissors and ONLY USE THEM FOR HAIR TRIMS. Dull scissors will do more damage.

Slip- Used to describe how slippery a product is (usually a conditioner or detangler)... the more slip it has, the more effectively it will coat the hair to aid in detangling.

SLS- Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (found in the harsher shampoos- the main reason that CG'ers avoid poo).

TNC- Twist-n-Curl. Two strand twist your hair and curl the ends with rollers.

Transitioning - This is the period of time since one's last relaxer.

TWA, also known as teeny weeny afro, refers to what is left after a big chop. Many Naturals will continue to wear their hair in this style until it grows long enough to put in other styles.

Twist Out- refers to a hairstyle in which the hair is two strand twisted, often overnight or for several days, and then untwisted and worn curly. The same can be said for braid-outs except that hair is braided first.

Wash and Go- Simply co-wash your hair, add a styler (gel, cream) and GO [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.] You leave the hair to air dry or dry with a diffuser. Although this style is cute and easy, my ends couldn't handle it. This is also seen as WnG, and W&G.

TOP 10 FOODS FOR HEALTHY HAIR

"Your hair grows about 1/4 to 1/2 inch every month, and the foundation of all of our new hair, skin, and nail growth is the nutrients we eat," says Dawn Jackson Blatner, RD, a Chicago-based dietitian. "If you eat a healthy diet, you will grow stronger and healthier cells throughout your entire body -- inside and out."

If you were born with fine, thin hair, you'll never have rope-thick tresses -- no matter what you eat -- but a well-balanced diet that includes plenty of growth-promoting protein and iron can make a difference, say nutrition and hair experts. And beware of dietary supplements often marketed to thicken hair or make it grow faster. They may backfire.

"Even though you can find beauty supplements on the shelves of most stores, try to get the nutrients you need from foods whenever possible," Paradi Mirmirani, MD, a dermatologist in Vallejo, Calif., tells WebMD. "In rare instances, excess supplementation of certain nutrients, such as vitamin A, has been linked to hair loss." When it comes to foods for healthy hair and beauty, variety is the best way to go. "An overall balanced diet of lean proteins, fruits, and vegetables, whole grains, legumes, fatty fish like salmon and low-fat dairy will help keep hair healthy," Giancoli says.

Healthy Hair Food No. 1: Salmon

Loaded with omega-3 fatty acids, this high-quality protein source is also filled with vitamin B-12 and iron.

"Essential omega-3 fatty acids are needed to support scalp health," says Andrea Giancoli, MPH, RD, a dietitian in Los Angeles and a spokeswoman for the American Dietetic Association. "A deficiency can result in a dry scalp and thus hair, giving it a dull look." Vegetarian? Include one or two tablespoons of ground flaxseed in your daily diet for some plant-based omega-3 fats.

Healthy Hair Food No. 2: Dark Green Vegetables

Spinach, like broccoli and Swiss chard, is an excellent source of vitamins A and C, which your body needs to produce sebum. The oily substance, secreted by your hair follicles, is the body's natural hair conditioner.

Dark green vegetables also provide iron and calcium.

Healthy Hair Food No. 3: Beans

Legumes like kidney beans and lentils should be an important part of your hair-care diet. Not only do they provide plentiful protein to promote hair growth, but ample iron, zinc, and biotin. While rare, biotin deficiencies can result in brittle hair. Blatner, who is also a spokeswoman for the American Dietetic Association, recommends three or more cups of lentils or beans each week.

Healthy Hair Food No. 4: Nuts

Brazil nuts are one of nature's best sources of selenium, an important mineral for the health of your scalp.

Walnuts contain alpha-linolenic acid, an omega-3 fatty acid that may help condition your hair. They are also a terrific source of zinc, as are cashews, pecans, and almonds. A zinc deficiency can lead to hair shedding, so make sure nuts are a regular on your healthy hair menu.

Healthy Hair Food No. 5: Poultry

Chickens and turkeys....the high-quality protein they provide will help give you the healthy hair you crave. "Without adequate protein or with low-quality protein, one can experience weak brittle hair, while a profound protein deficiency can result in loss of hair color," Giancoli tells WebMD. Poultry also provides iron with a high degree of bioavailability, meaning your body can easily reap its benefits.

Healthy Hair Food No. 6: Eggs

When it comes to healthy hair, it doesn't matter whether you like your eggs scrambled, fried, or over easy. However they're served up, eggs are one of the best protein sources you can find. They also contain biotin and vitamin B-12, which are important beauty nutrients.

Healthy Hair Food No. 7: Whole Grains

Sink your teeth into hearty whole grains, including whole-wheat bread and fortified whole-grain breakfast cereals, for a hair-healthy dose of zinc, iron, and B vitamins. A whole-grain snack can also be a great go-to food when your energy is zapped.

Healthy Hair Food No. 8: Oysters

Oysters can lead to healthy hair -- The key to their hair-boosting abilities is zinc -- a powerful antioxidant.

If oysters don't make a regular appearance on your dinner plate, don't despair. In addition to getting it from whole grains and nuts, you can also get zinc from beef and lamb.

Healthy Hair Food No. 9: Low-Fat Dairy Products

Low-fat dairy products like skim milk and yogurt are great sources of calcium, an important mineral for hair growth. They also contain whey and casein, two high-quality protein sources. For some healthy hair foods "to-go," try yogurt or cottage cheese. You can even boost their hair benefits by stirring in a couple of tablespoons of ground flaxseeds or walnuts for omega-3 fatty acids and zinc.

Healthy Hair Food No. 10: Carrots

Carrots are an excellent source of vitamin A, which promotes a healthy scalp along with good vision. Since a healthy scalp is essential for a shiny, well-conditioned head of hair, you'd be wise to include carrots in your diet as snacks or toppings on your salad.